Heading back to Slovakia, I couldn’t resist taking a week-long detour through Spain. Landing in the heart of Barcelona, I was drawn to the idea of a spontaneous motorcycle adventure. With no concrete plans, just a map and a desire for open roads, I started plotting a four-day coastal loop. After renting a scooter in the city, I set off to discover hidden gems along Catalan’s northern coastline. It was the perfect recipe for an unforgettable adventure – no bookings, no reservations, no exact plan, just pure spontaneity.
Landing in Barcelona
Arriving in the heart of vibrant Barcelona around noon, I decided to take the Aerobus, Barcelona’s airport express bus, to quickly reach the city center. This efficient service dropped me off at Plaça de Catalunya, right in the heart of the action. I purchased an online ticket for 12.50 euros, which covered both the outbound and return journeys and was valid for 90 days from the purchase date of the outbound trip.
Staying Connected: Local SIM Card
To stay connected during your adventure, grabbing a local SIM card is a must. Here’s a great option: Masmóvil (masnovil masmovil.es/tarifas-prepago) offers fantastic deals.
Head to the MASlife store located on the 7th floor of the El Corte Inglés shopping mall (a short stroll from Plaça de Catalunya bus stop). For just 15 euros, you’ll get a whopping 100GB of 5G data, valid for 30 days across the European Union. Plus, you’ll enjoy unlimited calls to national mobiles and landlines within Spain, and 800 minutes of international calls to 59 countries. The friendly staff will install and activate your SIM card on the spot – just bring your passport!
While you’re in El Corte Inglés, don’t miss the massive Supermercado supermarket on the low-level floor; it’s perfect for stocking up on travel essentials. Monday – Saturday: 09:00 – 21:30, Sunday: Closed
After a quick stroll from El Corte Inglés, I arrived at St Christopher’s Inn, my home base in Barcelona. Nestled just a few minutes’ walk from Plaça de Catalunya, this hostel is the perfect blend of comfort, convenience, and style. It’s a lively, modern space where travelers from all over the world gather, making it easy to meet new people and share travel stories.
The hostel offers a range of dorms and private rooms, each designed with a clean and functional aesthetic. I loved the thoughtful touches, like the privacy curtains on each bed, individual power outlets, and secure storage lockers – perfect for peace of mind. Just remember to bring your own padlock for the lockers or buy one from reception if you forget. They also have towels available for rent.
St Christopher’s also has a vibrant communal area with a bar that serves affordable drinks and meals and an outdoor terrace where travelers can relax and socialize. Plus, with free Wi-Fi throughout, you’re always connected.
For those looking to dive deeper into the city’s culture, the hostel organizes all kinds of Barcelona Tours and exciting Barcelona Nightlife experiences, including bar and club hopping, making it easy to explore the city’s vibrant social scene with your fellow travelers.
Preparing for the Ride: Scooter Rental and Essentials
After settling into the hostel, I began looking for a motorbike rental close by. I found Jota Cafe Motorcycles & Scooter Rental, conveniently within walking distance from St Christopher’s Inn. The guys there were very friendly, spoke good English, and made the process simple. I was lucky to secure the last Yamaha Xmax scooter in its category for about 50 euros per day. If you’re planning to rent, it’s better to reserve in advance, as the popular scooters go fast. The rental terms were for 24 hours, and I paid a 500-euro deposit. My pick-up time was set for the next morning at 8 AM.
Make sure to bring both your driving license with a motorbike permit and your international driving license. Both are required to rent the bike. To get ready for the trip, I stopped at the nearest gas station to purchase a phone holder and charger – essential for keeping my phone charged while using it for navigation.
With the scooter booked, I headed to Gold Street; Casa de Cambio de Moneda for a quick currency exchange, making sure I had enough cash for the upcoming adventure.
Exploring Barcelona’s Iconic Sights and Highlights
With everything sorted for the next day’s adventure, I had some time to explore Barcelona’s most iconic spots. The city is a vibrant mix of stunning architecture, rich history, and lively street life, so I couldn’t resist starting with a few must-visit places:
La Sagrada Família: Gaudí’s masterpiece and one of the most famous landmarks in Barcelona. This stunning basilica, still under construction, combines Gothic and Art Nouveau forms in an otherworldly way. The intricate façades and towering spires left me in awe.
La Rambla: A bustling tree-lined boulevard perfect for a leisurely stroll. This iconic street is filled with street performers, cafes, and shops, leading down to the waterfront. It’s a great way to soak in the local atmosphere.
Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic): A maze of narrow medieval streets packed with history. Here, I wandered through ancient alleys, discovering charming plazas, hidden churches, and even the majestic Barcelona Cathedral.
Casa Batlló and Casa Milà (La Pedrera): These two stunning modernist buildings designed by Gaudí are located along the Passeig de Gràcia. The whimsical shapes, colorful facades, and creative design elements make them stand out as some of the most remarkable pieces of architecture in the city.
The Royal Square (Plaça Reial) is a vibrant, palm-tree-lined square in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, near La Rambla, known for its elegant arcades, lively atmosphere, and iconic street lamps designed by Gaudí..
In addition to the tours offered by St Christopher’s Inn, there are many popular tours in Barcelona available through platforms like Airbnb Experiences. These unique tours cater to a wide range of interests:
- Walking Tours: Explore Barcelona’s rich history with guided walks through the Gothic Quarter, El Born, and Eixample’s modernist architecture.
- Tapas Tours: Savor classic Spanish and Catalan dishes at the city’s best tapas bars while learning about their cultural significance.
- Winery Tours: Visit Catalonia’s countryside vineyards, enjoy tastings of Cava, and learn about the region’s winemaking traditions.
- Helicopter Tours: Get stunning aerial views of Barcelona’s landmarks like La Sagrada Família, the coastline, and Montjuïc Hill.
- eBike Tours: Ride through Barcelona’s diverse neighborhoods, from Gràcia to El Raval, on an eco-friendly electric bike.
- Cultural and Flamenco Tours: Immerse yourself in Spain’s culture with flamenco performances and lessons, paired with rich artistic insights.
- Bike and Segway Tours: Cruise through scenic parks, beaches, and historic neighborhoods on a fun and active bike or Segway tour.
- Market Tours: Discover Barcelona’s lively markets like La Boqueria, sampling fresh produce and local delicacies amidst a bustling atmosphere.
The Start of My Adventure
The entire Spain trip spanned six days, with four days and three nights dedicated to a loop drive through the Catalan region, France, and Andorra before returning to Barcelona. Covering a little over 1,000 km. Google map link
The next morning, I picked up my Yamaha Xmax scooter, fully fueled and ready to hit the road. The night before, I had done some research, marking key stops along the coastal route with Google Maps set to avoid toll roads and highways. My plan was simple: explore Catalan’s northern coastal roads heading toward France, with no fixed itinerary, allowing the adventure to unfold naturally.
From Barcelona, I followed the N-II road, leading me to my first stop—Cala Roca Grossa, a hidden gem near Calella. Tucked away between rugged cliffs and golden sands, the peaceful cove offered crystal-clear waters and solitude, a perfect start to the journey.
After enjoying the serenity, I continued along the B-682 coastal road, passing through charming seaside villages and following the twists and turns of the Mediterranean coastline. I made my way to Tossa de Mar, a medieval town known for its cobbled streets and the impressive Vila Vella fortress. The view from the top of the castle was spectacular, with the turquoise sea stretching out below.
Following the Ctra de Palamós and C-253, I made a quick stop at Roques Planes, a unique coastal spot with smooth, flat rock formations jutting into the sea. The landscape here felt otherworldly, a peaceful contrast to the busy beaches nearby. Back on the road, I rode along the C-31 before crossing the border into France via the N-260.
My first stop in France was Plage de Cerbère, a quiet pebbled beach in a small fishing town. The relaxed atmosphere and beautiful views made it a perfect break. Continuing along the D914 coastal road, I made another stop at Plage de Banyuls-sur-Mer, a lively seaside town with a charming promenade. After soaking in the atmosphere, I visited the Royal Castle of Collioure, a medieval fortress overlooking the sea that added a sense of history to the coastal beauty.
As I crossed into France and cruised along the coastal roads, I began thinking about my next move. Should I stay overnight by the coast and enjoy the beach, or head into the mountains? Being more of a mountain person, I decided to follow my instincts and head towards Font-Romeu, a mountain town where I planned to stay for the night. I briefly checked Booking.com and saw a few options, so I felt confident I’d find a place once I arrived.
As the sun began to set, I left the coast behind and started climbing into the Pyrenees. The temperature dropped dramatically from the warm 34°C coastal breeze to a chilly 14°C in the mountains. Dressed only in a long-sleeve sweatshirt, the cold quickly set in as I approached Font-Romeu.
On my way, I passed through Villefranche-de-Conflent and couldn’t resist stopping to explore the Ramparts of Villefranche de Conflent, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This medieval fortified town, founded in the 11th century, is surrounded by impressive stone walls and offers a glimpse into its rich history as a military stronghold. As I walked through its narrow streets, I was captivated by the blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, with watchtowers peering over the town and the surrounding mountains. The town itself felt like stepping back in time, its historic charm still intact amidst the breathtaking mountain scenery.
After soaking in the history, I resumed my journey. By the time I reached Font-Romeu at around 9:30 PM, I discovered that the hotel reception had already closed. With weak cell phone service, I checked Booking.com again, only to realize that all available rooms were gone. I hadn’t expected most hotel receptions to close early during the off-season, they typically shut down around 8 PM.
I remembered passing a hotel about 10 km back (Hotel Le Clos Cerdan et résidence balnéothérapie Eau de Forme) where the lights were still on, so I decided to take a chance and head back. I arrived just before 10 PM, but to my disappointment, the lights were now off. Determined, I went to the restaurant and asked about the reception. To my relief, a kind lady told me they still had some rooms available and that the reception was open until 10 PM. I got really lucky and managed to secure a room just in time. The room offered beautiful views of the surrounding mountains, and I was relieved to be indoors after the cold ride.
The next morning, I enjoyed a basic but convenient breakfast before heading out to continue my mountain adventure.
Boucle des Étangs du Carlit hike (12 Lakes Variants)
Feeling refreshed and ready to explore more of the beautiful surroundings. I drove towards Lac de Bouillouses for the highly recommended Boucle des Étangs du Carlit hike, known for its stunning alpine lakes in the French Pyrenees.
The serene lake is surrounded by the breathtaking Pyrenean landscape. The wild horses grazing near the water add a peaceful, natural touch to the scene, enhancing the sense of tranquility you experience during this hike.
Hiking at Lac de Bouillouses – Boucle des Étangs du Carlit (9 Lakes and 12 Lakes Variants)
The Boucle des Étangs du Carlit offers two main variations: the 9-lakes loop and the 12-lakes loop. While both are beautiful, the 12-lakes loop takes you higher into the mountains and offers more dramatic views of the alpine lakes and surrounding peaks. Starting at Les Bones Hores cabin, the hike is a mix of forest trails, rocky paths, and open alpine landscapes, with pristine lakes at every turn. For hikers looking for a bit more of a challenge and unforgettable views, the 12-lakes route is the one to choose.
About 5 km from the center, I reached a gate where a helpful lady informed me that the road ahead was closed to the public. The only way to get closer to the trailhead was to park and either walk or take a shuttle bus. The bus, which departs every 30 minutes on a first-come, first-served basis, costs 7 euros for a round trip. There’s a large, free parking lot with nearby restrooms, making it convenient for hikers. I bought my ticket and waited for the shuttle, excited to begin my adventure. After a scenic 30-minute bus ride, I arrived at the trail’s starting point, the Les Bones Hores cabin, where the hike begins.
Les Bones Hores cabin is a rustic, cozy mountain refuge located near the starting point of several hiking trails around Lac de Bouillouses in the French Pyrenees. It serves as a hub for hikers, offering basic amenities like restrooms and a small café where you can grab a drink or snack before or after your hike.
At the cabin, I considered grabbing a beer but decided to save it for after the hike as a well-deserved reward. There are two variations of the hike: the 9-lakes loop and the more challenging 12-lakes loop. If you’re up for a bit more adventure and incredible scenery, the 12-lakes route is highly recommended. I opted for the longer 12-lakes loop and chose to hike it counterclockwise.
The trail starts through a tranquil forest, gradually opening up to reveal breathtaking mountain views and a series of shimmering lakes. The higher you climb, the more stunning the scenery becomes, making the extra effort for the 12-lakes route worth it. Rated at around 3.5 hours, I completed the hike in 2.5 hours, with only brief stops for water and photos, despite a few wrong turns along the way. It’s helpful to have a map app handy, as some parts of the trail are not well-marked.
After the hike, I finally treated myself to that beer at Les Bones Hores cabin, I’d been looking forward to. It tasted even better with the stunning mountain backdrop as I relaxed and checked Google Maps to plan my next destination.
On the way to Andorra
After the invigorating hike at Lac de Bouillouses, I hopped back on my scooter and set off for Andorra, a scenic two-hour drive along the N320 road. As I crossed into Andorra, the roads quickly became a motorcyclist’s paradise. The thrill of winding through the Pyrenees once again was exhilarating. The landscape grew even more breathtaking, with serpentine roads that seemed to climb and fall with every twist, offering jaw-dropping views of the majestic mountains at every turn.The further I rode, the more I began to descend into the valleys, losing elevation as the vistas became even more spectacular. The lush greenery and steep mountains framing the road created a picturesque setting, offering a perfect ride for any adventure enthusiast.
I eventually arrived at Hotel Bruxelles, a charming place nestled in the heart of the mountains. After check-in, I ventured out to explore Andorra la Vella, the country’s vibrant downtown. The city is a shopper’s paradise, with countless stores lining the streets, from luxury boutiques to supermarkets. There’s a bustling energy, with streets full of people enjoying the numerous restaurants and cafés. Surrounded by towering mountains, the mix of modernity and natural beauty is captivating, making it a unique destination.
My Spanish SIM card didn’t work here, so be sure to download Google offline maps or use the Maps.me app on your phone for navigation. Also, I found that booking accommodations through platforms like Agoda or Booking.com is often cheaper than paying directly at the hotel.
The Carros de Foc hike in the Catalan Pyrenees
Last night, I discovered the Carros de Foc hike, just about 126km away. This iconic 55km trail usually takes 4 to 9 days to complete, but with limited time, I opted for just a section as a day hike. Widely regarded as one of the most stunning multi-day hut-to-hut hikes in Europe, it’s also the most famous circular route in the Catalan Pyrenees.
I left my hotel at 6 a.m., and with the temperature dropping to 12°C, riding my scooter for over 2 hours and 15 minutes became increasingly uncomfortable without the proper gear. After about 30 minutes, I started shivering, and after an hour, I had to pull over to find a sunny spot to warm up.
As I warmed up in the sun, I took a moment to search for a place to stay later that night. On the way, I stumbled upon the Florido Hotel, and without booking it online, I decided to stop by. The owner was incredibly kind and let me check in as early as 8 a.m., which was perfect as I could drop off my stuff before heading out. The hotel’s setting was beautiful, and their breakfast buffet was excellent, even serving wine—an unexpected but pleasant touch!
Before starting my hike, I made a quick stop at BAR EL CORRALET a local restaurat for their famous beef sandwich and a coffee to fuel up. I drove about 40 minutes to reach Aparcament de Prat Pierró, near Sant Maurici, where I parked and prepared for the hike. Along the way, I learned there’s a 4×4 jeep shuttle available from the nearby town of Espot, which would have saved me 4 kilometers and about 50 minutes of walking. But by then, I was too far along to turn back, so I continued hiking toward Lake Sant Maurici.
The hike from Aparcament de Prat Pierró to Refugi J M Blanc is a scenic and moderately challenging trek through the stunning Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park. Starting at Aparcament de Prat Pierró, you follow a well-marked trail through dense forests of pine and beech, eventually reaching the picturesque Lake Sant Maurici. From here, the path ascends steadily, offering sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and crystal-clear lakes.
As you begin the final descent toward Refugi J M Blanc, the path opens up to reveal an awe-inspiring view of Estany Trullo. Nestled in a rugged, high-altitude basin, the lake shimmers with crystal-clear, turquoise water, reflecting the surrounding peaks.
As you climb, you’ll pass several small alpine lakes and streams, with jagged peaks framing the landscape. The trail gradually becomes rockier and more rugged as you approach the final stretch toward Refugi J M Blanc, located beside a beautiful high-altitude lake. The refuge is nestled in a remote and serene setting, offering a perfect place to rest after the rewarding hike.
As I approached Refugi J M Blanc, I couldn’t help but notice the significant elevation loss, and the thought crossed my mind—“I’m going to have to climb all that back up on the return!” The drop was nearly 375 meters from the highest point of the trail. Once I arrived at the refuge, I treated myself to a well-deserved beer, but the looming uphill return made me pause for a second. After ordering a second beer, I got curious and asked the staff how they managed to transport supplies to such a remote location. I assumed it was by helicopter, but to my surprise, they explained that a mountain road leads to the cabin, and they use 4×4 vehicles to bring everything in.
Armed with this new information, I quickly fired up my maps app and discovered the road leading back to the parking lot—a 10km route, about a 2-hour descent, and much easier than retracing my steps. I felt a wave of relief, knowing I could now take my time, relax, and enjoy the rest of my hike without the daunting uphill return. After a good rest, I followed the mountain road down, which was a gentle and scenic descent, all the way back to the parking lot where my scooter was waiting.
Final Chapter: Journey Back to Barcelona
After yesterday’s long hike, I enjoyed a relaxed breakfast at the Florido Hotel. While eating, I mapped out my journey back to Barcelona, and Santa Maria de Montserrat Abbey caught my attention. With its deep history and breathtaking views, I decided it was the perfect spot for a final stop before returning the scooter by 8 p.m.
The 3 hours ride to Montserrat was scenic, and once there, I parked and purchased a ticket to explore the abbey. The Basilica, with its famous Black Madonna, La Moreneta, is a spiritual and cultural icon of Catalonia, and the entire monastery sits beautifully nestled into the Montserrat mountain range.
After exploring the abbey, I set off on an 8km loop hike, which took about two hours and included several fascinating stops. The route passes La Santa Cova, a sacred cave where the Black Madonna was discovered, and leads to Creu de Sant Miquel, a viewpoint marked by a large cross that offers sweeping views of the valley below. Another highlight was the Ermita de Sant Miquel, a small, peaceful hermitage perched on the mountainside, adding a sense of serenity to the hike.
With such stunning natural beauty and rich history along the trail, it was the perfect way to wrap up my trip before heading back to Barcelona.
After returning my scooter around 7 p.m., I made my way back to the hostel, feeling both exhaustion and fulfillment from the past few days of adventure. These four days had been a whirlwind—packed with incredible landscapes, new discoveries, and unforgettable experiences. Sitting down at the hostel bar with a draft San Miguel, I reflected on how much I had seen and done in such a short time. It was almost overwhelming to process everything.
As I sipped my beer, I knew that these memories would stay with me for a long time, another chapter in my long list of travel adventures. Tomorrow morning, I’ll catch a bus to the airport and head back to Slovakia via Budapest, already thinking about where my next journey will take me.
The monastery’s impressive architecture blends harmoniously with the surrounding rock formations, and it has been a spiritual pilgrimage site for centuries.
