Adventure Calls—And I Must Go
Travel, exploration, and outdoor sports aren’t just things I do—they are my greatest passions in life, a core part of my identity. They feed my soul, and I feel a deep, undeniable pull toward adventure—when it calls, I simply go.
“All day, a feeling of restlessness sat in the back of my mind—something inside me was unsettled, pushing me forward. I couldn’t explain it, but I knew what it meant. It was time.”
I made up my mind—I was leaving in just one week. The decision set everything in motion. My days quickly filled with packing, tying up loose ends, vacating my rental house, getting my scooter serviced, and saying my goodbyes to friends and family. I had been planning this journey for a while, but I never knew exactly when I’d start—until now.
The plan? Ride across the Philippines. Start in Cebu, head north to Luzon, and let the road guide me. No fixed itinerary, no reservations—just riding, exploring, and figuring it out as I go.
Day 1: Cebu to Panaon Island – 335 km
Monday, March 17, 2025. The alarm rang at 5 AM, but I was already awake. By 6 AM, I was on the road, leaving Cebu City behind. My first destination was Bogo, where I would catch the 10 AM Aznar Ferry to Leyte.
Riding through the early morning air felt refreshing at first, but as the speed picked up, the wind pressed against me. I tightened my grip on the handlebars, focused on the road ahead. I arrived at Polambato Port an hour early, just enough time to sort out the usual paperwork for traveling with a motorcycle:
- Ferry ticket: ₱1,205 (purchased at the Aznar Ferry office)
- OCR verification: Coast Guard inspection
- Terminal fee: ₱120
The Aznar Ferry offers daily trips from Polambato Port in Bogo City, Cebu, to Palompon, Leyte, with departures at 10:00 AM. The journey takes approximately 2 hours and 20 minutes.
With some time to spare, I rode into Bogo Public Market to grab some fruit, then stopped at 7-Eleven for my much-needed morning coffee. The caffeine kick fueled me as I checked my map.
Once I landed in Palompon, Leyte, I had two choices—head north to Biliran Island or south to Panaon Island. Staring at the map, I decided to go south, taking the Ormoc-Merida-Isabel Road. The ride was beautiful—twisting roads hugging the coast, the sea stretching endlessly beside me.
I had planned to stop for lunch at A.Five Layby Restaurant, a spot with stunning ocean views, but when I arrived, the place was closed. Disappointed but still enjoying the ride, I pressed on.
The sun had already set by the time I reached Pintuyan, Panaon Island, at 6 PM. The long ride had taken its toll on me, and I was exhausted. I checked into D @ G Transient House, threw my bag down, and took a short rest.
Hunger kicked in, so I headed to the night market, where locals were grilling all sorts of Filipino barbecue. I asked for grilled fish, but they didn’t have any. A vendor pointed me toward the nearby fish market, saying, “If you bring a fish, I’ll grill it for you.”
The market was nearly closed. One of the last sellers was already cleaning up, but I caught him just in time. “You got any fish left?” I asked. He smiled, pulled out a fresh tuna, and handed it to me.
Minutes later, my fish was sizzling on the grill. The aroma filled the air as I watched the flames dance under the night sky. The first bite? Perfect. The smoky, tender fish paired with rice was exactly what I needed after a long day on the road.
Full and satisfied, I went back to my room and crashed.
Day 2: Panaon Island to Tacloban – 240 km
At 5 AM, my internal clock woke me up. Breakfast at the transient house was simple but enough to get me going. The owners were warm and welcoming, and I found myself chatting with them on the terrace.
I asked one of the locals about driving around Panaon Island. Google Maps didn’t show any connecting roads on the east side of the island, so I was curious. He nodded, “There are roads, but they’re still under construction. Not the best conditions.”
That was all I needed to hear—perfect for an adventure.
Just as I geared up, the rain started falling. No turning back now. I pulled on my rain jacket and hit the road.
The ride along Panaon’s coastal road was stunning—mist-covered hills on one side, the open sea on the other. The rain made the road slick, and some sections were pure mud, but nothing too extreme. I pushed through, enjoying every second of the challenge.
By midday, I reached Liloan and rejoined the main road. My goal was to make it to Tacloban City before dark—about 152 km ahead.
The moment I hit AH26 at Barayong, everything changed. This was a well-maintained road, built for speed, with cars and trucks flying by. I had to stay sharp—high-speed roads require a different kind of focus. But as I rode, I found myself missing the backroads. The less-traveled paths, the unexpected detours—that’s where the real adventure happens.
Day 3: Tacloban City to Biliran – 115 km
I arrived in Tacloban City just as darkness fell, the rain pouring steadily. The long ride left me completely soaked, but finally reaching my hotel room felt like a victory.
Despite the weather, I wasn’t ready to call it a night. I hopped back on my scooter and rode around downtown, letting the city reveal itself in the glow of streetlights. That’s when I stumbled upon a Otabeya Japanese Ramen & Home Cooking tucked away in a side street. The warm, fragrant bowl of ramen was exactly what I needed after a cold and rainy ride.
The next morning, a memory from the previous day stuck with me—I had passed by a memorial site on the way in but was too tired to stop. I had to go back.
The MacArthur Landing Memorial National Park stood tall, marking a key moment in history. I took my time wandering the area, then crossed the street to buy a fresh coconut from a local vendor. Sipping the cool, sweet water, I set off for a peaceful 5 km walk along the seaside boardwalk.
Back in the city, I grabbed some street food, had my scooter checked at a Honda dealer, and by 11 AM, I was back on the road—heading toward Naval, Biliran Island.
The ride was pure rain, three hours straight, covering 115 km. When I finally arrived at my hotel, I was drenched and exhausted. A quick stop at a food stall got me a steaming bowl of Pares beef soup, a local specialty.
The weather forecast? A whole week of rain. And judging by the downpour overnight and the steady drizzle in the morning, it looked like they were just right.
Day 4: Exploring Biliran in the Rain
I woke up to the sound of heavy raindrops on the roof. I could have stayed in, waiting for clearer skies—but that’s not my style. I threw on my rain gear and hit the road, ready to explore Biliran.
Too often, obstacles become an excuse to stay in place, to wait for better conditions. But stepping into the unknown, embracing the adventure—no matter the weather, no matter the challenge—is where the real journey begins. The world is full of people waiting to be met, stories waiting to be shared, and places waiting to be seen. Some encounters last only a moment, others stay with us for a lifetime. We meet people for a reason—whether to learn, to grow, or to change. Saying yes to opportunities opens doors we never knew existed. Life unfolds in unpredictable ways, and in the process, we touch lives, just as others leave their mark on ours.
About 25 minutes in, I spotted a cozy-looking coffee shop Thani’s Garden Cafe with a beautiful outdoor setup. I still hadn’t had my morning coffee, so I decided to stop by.
The owners, Toni and Thani, greeted me with warm smiles and genuine hospitality. They showed me around their property, which felt like a tropical retreat, full of plants and peaceful vibes. They were even building bungalows with private pools, one of which was already finished and open for guests.
After soaking in the relaxing atmosphere, I got back on the road and headed to a nearby Tinago waterfall. With all the recent rain, the water was absolutely raging—powerful, muddy, and crashing down in full force. It was a wild sight.
From there, I continued riding around the northern part of the island. The landscape was stunning—endless rice terraces, rolling hills covered in coconut trees, and a peaceful coastal road. Biliran felt untouched, quiet, and laid-back—just the kind of place I love to explore.
Day 5: Ride from Biliran to San Juanico Bridge – 162 km
The morning in Biliran greeted me with clear skies—despite the forecast predicting rain. I took the time to write my journal and edit some images, reflecting on the past days and planning my next move.
With good weather on my side, I set off eastward, passing by my favorite coffee shop before continuing along the southern coast of Biliran. The ride was smooth, the scenery ever-changing, and after 162 kilometers on the road, I reached my stop just before San Juanico Bridge, the iconic span that connects Leyte and Samar.
Day 6: Across Samar: Crossing San Juanico Bridge & Coastal Adventures – 233km
I left at 7 AM, crossing the most famous bridge in the Philippines—the San Juanico Bridge. Spanning 2.16 km, it was opened in 1973 and connects Leyte and Samar. It’s the fourth longest bridge in the country, and riding across it early in the morning felt surreal, with the view stretching over the calm waters below.
Following the east-south coastal road around the island, I encountered rough patches with plenty of potholes, making the first 50 km quite a challenge. However, the ride transformed into a beautiful journey as the road became smooth with well-maintained asphalt. The scenery was breathtaking—endless coconut palm trees lined both sides of the road, hugging the highway all the way to Taft.
I made my first stop in Basey, a small coastal town, to grab some fruit for breakfast. Sitting by the shore, I enjoyed the calm scenery before stopping for a quick coffee at 7/11 and continuing north. The weather was unpredictable, with rain coming and going, but I made multiple stops along the way to capture photos of the stunning landscapes.
Exploring Canhugas Nature Park
One of the highlights of the day was visiting Canhugas National Park, a spectacular ocean park where dramatic waves crashed against the rocky shoreline. Upon exiting, a lovely lady from the park office struck up a conversation with me. I asked if there were any interesting spots up north, and she mentioned Ginduyanan Cove—a hidden gem that wasn’t officially open to the public yet. She advised me to find a local guide who could take me there.
Discovering Ginduyanan Cove
Taking her advice, I drove to a nearby location and asked the locals. Sure enough, a gentleman happened to be passing by and agreed to lead the way. We embarked on a short 20-minute jungle hike with a small climb, revealing a breathtaking cove with a natural arch carved by the waves. Seawater rushed in and out through a hole in the rock, creating a mesmerizing sight. It felt untouched, like stepping into a secret world.
A Coconut Hunt at Panglaw Beach
On the way back, I made a detour to Panglaw Beach, an untouched paradise straight out of a Robinson Crusoe novel. A few open bungalows dotted the shoreline, and as I wandered, I hoped to find a fresh coconut. A local family enjoying lunch noticed me and kindly offered a cold drink. When I asked about fresh coconuts, they mentioned that no one was serving at the moment, but they were also craving one.
So, we decided to go on a coconut hunt together. Patrick and Isi, two friendly locals from the family, joined me as we searched for someone who could climb a tree and fetch fresh buko. After a bit of asking around, we found a man willing to do it. Within minutes, we had our refreshing coconuts—nothing beats the taste of fresh buko straight from the source.
Push Forward or Stay Another Day?
Re-energized, I hopped back on my scooter and continued north. My goal was Catarman, but I still had nearly seven hours of riding ahead. By 4:30 PM, I passed by the Mana Hotel in Taft and decided to take a break instead of pushing through another five-hour ride in the dark. Since I hadn’t made any hotel reservations, I had the freedom to stay wherever I wanted, giving me the flexibility to adjust my plans on the go.
After checking in and settling into my room, I stepped outside with a cold beer, soaking in the hotel’s peaceful atmosphere. Before long, I struck up a conversation with a civil engineer from Manila, who was in town working on local road projects. Our chat drifted from infrastructure to travel, turning a simple evening into an interesting exchange of stories and perspectives.
Day 7: A Change of Pace
After days of steady travel, I debated whether to push on or take a short break. Since I prefer to keep moving unless a place truly captivates me or offers multi-day outdoor adventures, staying put wasn’t my usual choice. However, I decided to take the day to catch up on my travel journal and organize my notes.
With time on my hands, I checked out a local gym for a workout and later treated myself to a bowl of ramen in town, enjoying a quiet meal by the bridge with a beautiful view. The unexpected pause turned out to be a welcome moment to reflect on the journey so far and plan the next stretch of the adventure.
