If you’ve ever wanted to explore the southern Cebu mountains by scooter or motorbike, you’ve probably come across stories of breathtaking landscapes, stunning peaks, and thrilling adventures. However, navigating these mountainous routes isn’t always as easy as it looks. I’ve also heard stories about tourists who never made it to the mountains because they were too careless with their directions. Misjudging the route or relying solely on navigation apps can often result in confusion and dangerous turns.
Just this year, in July 2024, I read a review on TripAdvisor about a couple who almost had a fatal accident while riding a scooter to Osmeña Peak. Their navigation with Google Maps led them onto an unfinished Highland route, where some parts of the road are still under construction and feature steep sections that are difficult to navigate. Having spent years riding these mountainous roads, I feel compelled to share some of my insights and experiences about driving in southern Cebu’s mountainous terrain. Whether you’re a seasoned rider or a first-timer, these tips will help ensure a safer and smoother adventure.
I’ve ridden these roads multiple times, and it’s not always been smooth sailing. There have been moments when my front brake overheated and completely failed, and I’ve also heard stories of other tourists crashing on the Highland Route, which is steep and unforgiving. As of today, December 17, 2024, some sections of the Highland Route remain unfinished. Even in areas that are technically completed, the terrain is incredibly steep and difficult to handle. It’s a route best avoided if you want to stay safe.
The selected blue-highlighted route is the unfinished Highland Road where the accident occurred. The alternative route suggested by Google Maps is only suitable for dirt bikes and is otherwise impassable for scooters or regular vehicles.
🗺️ The Three Main Peaks You Should Visit
If you’re planning an adventure in Cebu’s mountains, you’ll want to check out these three stunning peaks:
Kandungaw Peak – This is my personal favorite. It offers breathtaking scenic vistas and, most of the time, you’ll find yourself completely alone at the top. The hike takes about 40 minutes, but the solitude and stunning views make it an unforgettable experience.
Casino Peak – A fantastic choice with panoramic views that will leave you in awe. The hike here is quick and easy, taking only about 20 minutes. It’s less crowded and still offers a scenic mountain experience.
Osmeña Peak – The most popular and commercialized peak in Cebu. Known for its jagged green formations and 360-degree views, it’s a must-see but tends to be busier due to higher tourist traffic. The hike to the top is also short and takes about 20 minutes.
Each of these peaks has something special to offer, so if you have the time, I recommend experiencing at least two or three of them.
🕗 Timing Your Trip: Start Early and Plan Well
Recommended Start Time
Reaching Osmeña Peak from Moalboal takes around 2 hours, so it’s crucial to start your journey early. I recommend heading out around 7 a.m., especially if you want to be back in Moalboal before 5 p.m.
🚨 Just Don’t Do It – Avoid Driving After Dark
It starts getting dark around 5 p.m. all year round here in the Philippines, and driving after that time is a risk you should simply avoid. The roads become extremely hazardous due to:
- In most areas, there are no streetlights
- Vehicles without lights or using high beams, which can blind you
- Poor visibility
- Hidden potholes
- Loose gravel, road work, or unfinished roads
- Dogs roaming freely
- Numerous sharp turns and steep ascents
- People crossing the street are harder to spot
Starting your trip early not only ensures a safer ride but also helps you avoid unnecessary risks, giving you a better chance of enjoying your trip without complications.
Taking a rest and soaking in the scenery, surrounded by lush green mountains stretching far and wide.
🛵 How to Get There – Renting a Scooter & Riding Yourself
If you’re planning to explore the peaks on your own, renting a scooter is a popular choice. Here’s how you can navigate the mountains with ease:
- Rent Your Scooter:
- Rental shops in Moalboal offer scooters for around 350 pesos/day. (Honda Click 125cc)
- Don’t forget to add a phone holder and charger – often available at nearby gas stations.
Take a look at the guide I put together: Renting A Scooter In Southeast Asia: All You Need To Know
- Navigation Tips:
Make sure to use a combination of Google Maps, Maps.me, Mapy.cz, OpenStreetMap, and any local advice. All of these mapping apps offer offline versions that you can download in advance.
You can download the KLM map from this link From Moalboal to Osmena Peak KLM and upload it to the maps.me app for offline navigation.
To stay connected, get a local SIM card or use an eSIM from a provider like Airalo.
You can follow the map below to reach Osmeña Peak or other peaks. Once there, you have the option to either complete the entire loop or retrace your path back the same way you came.
Check out my guide about 15 Essential Apps to Enhance Your Philippine Travel Adventure
When you take a wrong turn and refuse to turn back.
Google Maps shows a full loop route. When you reach Osmeña Peak, you can either drive back the way you came or continue around the loop through Ronda, eventually returning to Moalboal. Google Map Link
Here’s a guide on how to use KML files with Maps.me. Navigating with KML Files
Alternative Options for Exploring the Peaks
If riding a scooter isn’t ideal, you have a few alternatives:
1. Habal-Habal (Motorcycle Taxi)
- Take a bus from Moalboal to Alegria, then hop onto a habal-habal. A bus ride from Moalboal to Alegria serves as a starting point for mountain adventures. Get off the bus here at 7H Canyoneering Adventure.
- From there, arrange a habal-habal (motorbike taxi) for a scenic and cost-effective trip to the peaks. Drivers are usually waiting in the area, ready to take both tourists and locals on the journey.
- A habal-habal ride to visit all three peaks will cost around 500 pesos per person.
- The driver can take you to the peaks and back, typically in about 4 hours.
- It’s an adventurous option but also cheaper than a private car rental.
2. Local Tour Drivers
- You can also hire an individual driver for a private car trip.
- While less flexible than a habal-habal, it offers a comfortable way to explore the peaks with added safety.
You can check out my custom-tailored scooter tours here: Scooter Tour
Some parts of the road on the way to Osmeña Peak are still under construction.
🌊 Bonus Stops Along the Way
1. Waterfalls
- Cangkalanog Falls: A scenic stop with cool, clear waters.
- Cambais Falls: A stunning waterfall, although it was severely damaged by Typhoon Odette.
2. Coal Mountain Resort
- For an extra 100 pesos entrance fee, enjoy a mini zoo (Python snake, ostrich, monkey, and the Philippine white-headed eagle.) and stunning mountain views.
- A perfect spot to stop for panoramic views, enjoy a mini nature experience, and grab a cold drink and a snack before the final leg of your trip back to Moalboal.
3. Mantalongon Public Market
- A bustling local market where you can:
- Stock up on fresh fruits and veggies
- Refuel your scooter
- Make quick toilet stops
- Try local foods at carenderia, best visited before noon when the selection is freshest.
Mantalongon is a key trading center for fresh produce grown in the cool, mountainous climate of the region.
4. Patimz Bistro
- A scenic stop for a coffee and snacks with great views of the surrounding landscapes.
5. Nature’s Peak Restaurant
- Located near Osmeña Peak, it’s an excellent spot to enjoy a meal with a view.
📝 Practical Advice for a Smooth Trip
1. Register & Pay Fees
- On each peak (Osmeña, Casino, Kandugaw), you need to:
- Register and pay a small entrance fee
- Additional parking fees may apply, usually about 20 pesos.
2. Guides Are Optional
- While guides are not mandatory because the routes are well-marked, local guides are available if you prefer extra support.
🌦️ Check the Weather Before You Go
Mountain weather can be unpredictable. Here’s what you should keep in mind:
- Use the Windy app to check real-time weather updates.
- Higher altitudes mean cooler temperatures and more rainfall, even in the dry season.
- Bring layers of clothing, rain gear, and waterproof jackets.
🎒 Final Thoughts
Exploring the Cebu mountains is a thrilling experience, but it’s not without challenges. From steep ascents to tricky navigation and sudden weather changes, these mountains offer adventures that are as rewarding as they are demanding. Whether you choose to ride a scooter or hire a habal-habal driver, preparation and local knowledge are key.
One of the most heartwarming parts of this experience is interacting with the locals. You’ll get a glimpse of authentic local life, with kids often excited to see tourists, waving enthusiastically and offering high-fives. The adults are just as friendly and welcoming, always ready to share a smile and a bit of local wisdom. These interactions add a personal touch to your journey and make exploring the mountains even more memorable.
